Big Screen Sport and Great Food on Chiswick High Road

Once dubbed “chav central” by forumites, The Barley Mow has recently undergone a significant conversion in terms of décor and clientele.

Indeed, this Chiswick "local" under the new management of husband and wife Johnny and Charlie Kirkpatrick has been brought right up to date in terms of interior decoration, service and, the thing that I personally was most interested in, food and whilst the exterior remains similar, it is worth not judging this pub by its cover.

A stone's throw from formidable neighbour Sam's Brasserie, the Barley Mow occupies a prominent corner of the Chiswick High Road. Welcoming and spacious, the interior is decked out in dark wooden tables and stools and luxurious leather sofas and armchairs. The walls, covered in ornate old-gold paper and set off by huge heavy framed gilt mirrors, bring a sense of flair to what would otherwise render it a uniform “gastro styled” interior.

That said, the Barley Mow do not bill themselves as a gastro pub. “The Barley Mow is a comfortable, informal and welcoming place where you can drink, eat and relax," says manager Johnny Kirkpatrick on the pub’s website “We want the pub to appeal to a wider clientele and be the best place in Chiswick to meet and eat." And judging by the lunch I had there last week, it could well be in the running.

With a choice of a regular set menu and daily specials, it was not a simple decision to settle for a smoked salmon, crème fraiche and spring onion club sandwich (£5.75) which came on toasted wholemeal and with a generous helping of salad and root vegetable crisps. My lunch date chose fusilli with luxuriously rich and creamy spinach and toasted pine nut sauce (£5.75). Washed down with a small glass of Pinot Grigio (I’m in training!) and an even more restrained pint of lime cordial respectively, the bill came to a lean £15.30.

"All our food is freshly prepared in the pub's kitchen from fresh ingredients." says Charlie (again on their website). "So far, the most popular dishes on the menu are the salmon and haddock fishcakes and the pork and apple sausages, served with buttered mash and onion gravy.”
For what is ostensibly a pub, the service was as good as the food. I was initially given the wrong dish and, when pointed it out, a correct replacement came within minutes accompanied by zero fuss and profuse apologies.

Barley Mow, which is part of the Capital Pub Group, is a free house serving a wide range of draught ales, lagers and bottled beers with a comprehensive wine list, most of which can be bought by the glass.

I would certainly go back to try out more of Barley Mow’s food, especially their evening menu which is served in the pub’s non-smoking dining room. For those, like my lunch date, who would be looking for a more sporty evening out, Barley Mow still has its big TV screen plus 2 plasmas – so really something for everyone.

Emma Brophy

February 6, 2007