If done properly according to Steve Malpass who's be doing his research

The humble chip can be an awesomely gastronomic experience if done properly, writes Steve Malpass who has been trying out gastropubs in the area, mostly using burger and chips as his yardstick.

Here are his findings thus far:

1. The Bollo House - the fat chips at the Bollo are pretty perfect. Distinctly fried in goose fat or dripping so they naturally taste amazing, crispy outside and fluffy inside. How a chip should be done. A friend ordered the skinny fries. These are excellent too but it's all about the fat chips at The Bollo. Went back just to make sure it wasn't a fluke the first time. It wasn't.

2. The Roebuck - fat, triple-cooked things. Tasty and typically gastropubby. Not quite as good as The Bollo's though.

3. Sam's Brasserie - do you like McDonald fries? Me too. These are remarkably similar in flavour but obviously superior. Attractively presented in a little zinc tin thing too.

4. The Duke of Sussex - these look like textbook fat chips like your nan used to make. Perfectly golden on the outside but maybe just a bit *too* fat as the insides are slightly too dry. Have a beverage handy. You'll need it to help get through them.

5. The Old Stationhouse - this is my local so I've eaten here more than any other place in Chiswick. They do those fairly generic thin things here, which are perfectly edible. If you can't do *great* hand cut chips, serve these instead. Sensible.

6. The Bull's Head - the food in general at this place on the Strand is surprisingly well above average for a chain pub (the pies especially). The chips, despite being typical frozen things, are inoffensive enough for a chain pub. The location makes up for this somewhat.

7. Annie's - I *love* Annie's. It's my favourite Chiswick eatery. The food in general is lovely and the atmosphere unbeatably cosy BUT the chips are disappointing.

And although I've never eaten at The Barley Mow, the chips look fantastic. Big, brown, crispy, fatty things. Mmm...

More to come after a few more visits!

Steve Malpass

May 3, 2011