But is Pissarro's worth the trek for the more impoverished?

Situated literally a stone’s throw from the river, Pissarro’s location is both desirable and difficult. Even though it’s possible to moor your yacht at Chiswick Pier and pop in for a bite to eat, the more impoverished have either a bit of a walk from the High Road or a trip on the E3 bus - that is of course if you want to have a glass or two with your meal otherwise there is ample car parking.

Travel logistics aside, Pissarro’s off the beaten track setting in Corney Reach is undeniably a pleasant one.

The classic white walled, wooden floored interior is enhanced by a sizeable conservatory from which diners have what could almost be described as a rural view across the river to Barnes during daylight hours. In the evening the conservatory provides a great vantage point to observe the nocturnal comings and goings of Chiswick Pier as we discovered on the occasion we visited.

Pissarro’s offer a choice of menus throughout the day - a la carte, brasserie and breakfast. We chose grilled squid with braised fennel and green chilli salsa (£7.00) and buffalo mozzarella with roast pumpkin, figs, rocket and basil pistou (£8.00) to start from the a la carte.

The minute squid pieces were small on size but big in freshness and flavour and the braised fennel an intuitive accompaniment however, the green chilli salsa was overpowering and too salty for me and took something away from the otherwise enjoyable dish. No such issue with the buffalo mozzarella and pumpkin (apt ingredient for this Halloween evening) which was a real winner.

The mains of pan fried mackerel fillets with sweet potato, bok choy and shitake broth (£14.00) and butter bean ragout with artichoke, pumpkin, courgette and sheep’s ricotta (£12.50) both proved good combinations and well executed. If there was one fault it would be the over-seasoning of the first dish which I again found too salty.

To drink we shared a bottle of Pinot Grigio (£17.90) from the extensive but, in my opinion, pricey wine list and a bottle of San Pellegrino (£3.50). Neither my dinner date nor I fancied anything from the dessert menu as we were too full from the previous courses so I had a latte (£2.60!) and she polished off the wine.

The bill came to £73.69 of which £8.19 was service.

During dinner, we discussed how to best describe Pissarro’s and decided it was a ‘grown up’ restaurant. Not to say it’s staid, rather that we felt the a la carte menu and wine list lends itself more to special occasions than to everyday dining. That said, the restaurant is invariably full at weekends for breakfast and Sunday lunches and families are made welcome at these times.

Emma Brophy

November 14, 2007