The Copper Cow moves into former home of Coyote

Not sure what it is with Fauconberg Road and animals, first they had a coyote - about as indigenous to Chiswick as a rhino - and now they’ve got a peculiar coloured cow taking up residence.

After a speedy white wash, the installation of a few choice accessories including a cow bell behind the bar and smart white blinds in the windows, the bastion of Grove Park’s drinking / dining scene has reopened completing a transformation from The Coyote into The Copper Cow.

Eternally popular with locals, only some would disagree that The Coyote’s standards had fallen in recent years nevertheless with a monopoly on the café bar business in this residential enclave of Chiswick it had little impact on its custom. But would this local loyalty be transferred to the new owners?

We expected The Copper Cow (the name is the result of a sudden brainstorm by the new owners as opposed to any special fondness for all things bovine) to be finding its feet after opening without fanfare last Thursday however we when visited on a cold and extremely wet Monday evening the bar was buzzing and a fair few tables were occupied by diners.

The new owners are a couple with local culinary credentials most recently gained from The Roebuck so it was little surprise that both the décor and menu have more than a touch of gastro-pub about them.

Although no welcome was extended until we managed to catch the barmaid’s eye through the throng of drinkers, The Copper Cow still has the same effortless laid back ambience. And similarities don't end there, the new owners have evidently managed to hang on to the same sticky tables though now complemented by mismatched wooden chairs, stools and a couple of leather high backed benches.

Service was friendly but unsystematic, unsurprising considering there was one woman to wait tables and serve behind the bar. Still we were in no hurry and enjoyed a glass of Chilean Sauvignon Blanc and half a Grolsch (also have Carlsberg, London Pride and Guinness on draught) while we waited for our starters to arrive.

The plump juicy mussels served in a creamy white wine sauce (£6.00) were a delicious velvety delight in direct contrast to the blue swimmer crab and avocado salad (£6.75) which was straight-from-the-fridge-cold and a bit of a non event.

The mains were more consistent. The Copper Cow burger served with mature cheddar, crisp bacon and big chips (£9.50) was a decent contender for a place in the local top ten and the chargrilled sea bass with roasted Mediterranean vegetables and herb oil (£12.50) though more charred than grilled was pleasant enough.

With an enjoyable bottle of Argentinean Malbec fairly priced at £14.50 the bill came to £54.75 not including service.

I’ve no doubt The Copper Cow will do well regardless because of its location and the loyal local clientele that comes with it, however the new owners have a real chance to make this reincarnation into an outstanding neighbourhood eatery and one that will prove enough to entice north-siders away from the High Road and across the A4 - let's hope they take it.

Emma Brophy

May 1, 2008